Installing your own flooring can save hundreds of dollars in labor — and with the right prep, it's a project most homeowners can tackle with confidence. This guide walks you through every step, from measuring to final trim.
Step 1: Measure your space & order the right amount
Accurate measurements are the foundation of a smooth project. Always order more than you think you need to account for cuts and future repairs.
- Multiply room length x width to get square footage. For L-shaped rooms, divide into rectangles and add them up.
- Add 10% overage for waste — bump to 15% for diagonal or herringbone layouts.
- Order all flooring from the same production lot to ensure consistent color and texture.
- Factor in doorways, closets, and any areas behind appliances.
Tip: Use the Arko flooring calculator to get an accurate estimate instantly — just enter your room dimensions.
Step 2: Gather your tools & materials
Having everything ready before you start prevents costly mid-project delays. Most installations require:
- Tape measure, pencil, chalk line
- Utility knife or flooring cutter
- Circular saw or miter saw (for plank cuts)
- Tapping block and pull bar
- Rubber mallet
- Spacers (for expansion gaps)
- Level and pry bar (for subfloor prep)
- Safety glasses and knee pads
- Moisture meter (especially for wood flooring)
Step 3: Prepare the subfloor
A flat, clean, and dry subfloor is non-negotiable. Even minor imperfections cause squeaks, cracks, and premature wear.
- Clean thoroughly — sweep and vacuum all debris, dust, and old adhesive.
- Check flatness — most manufacturers require the floor to be flat within 3/16" over 10 feet. Use a long level or straightedge.
- Fix high spots — grind or sand them down.
- Fill low spots — use a self-leveling compound.
- Test for moisture — excess moisture causes warping and buckling. Address any issues before proceeding.
- Secure loose boards — screw down any squeaky subfloor sections.
- Remove old flooring if required by your new product's installation specs.
Step 4: Acclimate your flooring
Many flooring types need time to adjust to your room's temperature and humidity before installation. Skipping this step is one of the most common — and costly — DIY mistakes. Failure to acclimate can lead to gaps, buckling, and locking systems coming loose.
| Flooring type | Acclimation needed? | How long |
|---|---|---|
| Solid hardwood | Yes | 5–7 days minimum |
| Engineered hardwood | Yes | 48–72 hours |
| Laminate | Yes | 24–48 hours |
| Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) | Usually no | Check manufacturer specs |
| Tile | No | N/A |
Keep boxes flat in the installation room — not a cold garage — and maintain normal household temperature throughout acclimation.
Step 5: Underlayment & vapor barriers
Underlayment is a thin layer placed between the subfloor and your finished floor. It provides sound absorption, cushioning, and moisture protection. A vapor barrier controls moisture vapor rising up from below — especially important over concrete and in basements.
| Type | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Foam | Laminate, LVP | Affordable, easy to install |
| Cork | Hardwood, laminate | Good sound absorption, eco-friendly |
| Rubber | High-traffic areas | Durable, excellent moisture resistance |
| Combination (with built-in vapor barrier) | Basements, concrete subfloors | All-in-one convenience |
- Roll out underlayment perpendicular to the direction of your planks.
- Tape seams with moisture-resistant tape.
- You can buy underlayment with a pre-attached vapor barrier, or a separate roll — some products also come in a spreadable liquid form.
- Many LVP products come with underlayment pre-attached — check before doubling up.
Step 6: Plan your layout
A few minutes of planning prevents expensive mistakes and makes the finished floor look professional.
- Direction — run planks parallel to the longest wall, or parallel to the primary light source for the best visual effect.
- Starting wall — begin from the straightest, most visible wall in the room.
- Expansion gaps — leave 1/4"–3/8" around the entire perimeter and around fixed obstacles like cabinets and door frames.
- Stagger joints — offset end joints by at least 6" between rows for structural integrity and appearance.
- Dry-lay first — test-fit a few rows before locking anything in.
- Check the last row — if it will be less than half a plank wide, shift your starting position so both the first and last rows are similar widths.
Step 7: Install the flooring
Installation steps vary by product type, but most click-lock floating floors follow this general process:
- Place spacers against the starting wall to hold the expansion gap.
- Lay the first row with the tongue side facing away from the wall.
- Connect planks end-to-end along the first row using a tapping block and mallet.
- Start row two with a cut piece (at least 6" long) to stagger the end joints.
- Angle each new row into the previous row's groove, then press flat.
- Continue row by row, checking alignment with a chalk line periodically.
- Cut the final row to width and use a pull bar to snap it into place.
- Remove all spacers once installation is complete.
For glue-down or loose-lay vinyl, follow the specific instructions for your product.
Step 8: Finishing touches
- Install baseboards or quarter-round molding to cover expansion gaps. Nail into the wall — never into the floor itself.
- Add transition strips in doorways and wherever flooring types meet.
- Move furniture back using plywood sheets or furniture pads to protect the surface.
- Clean up with a dry microfiber mop to remove dust and debris.
Flooring-specific tips
Luxury vinyl plank (LVP)
- One of the most DIY-friendly options — flexible, forgiving, and usually requires no acclimation.
- Can be installed over most existing floors; just check door clearance first.
- Fully waterproof LVP is ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, and basements.
- 12 mil wear layer works well for residential use; go 20 mil or higher for heavy traffic.
- Browse all luxury vinyl plank options.
Laminate
- Always acclimate for 24–48 hours in the installation space before you begin.
- Not suitable for wet areas unless specifically labeled waterproof. See waterproof laminate.
- Use a tapping block — never tap directly on the plank edge — to protect the locking system.
- A moisture barrier is strongly recommended over any concrete subfloor.
- Browse all laminate flooring options.
Hardwood
- Acclimate solid hardwood for 5–7 days; engineered hardwood for 48–72 hours.
- Lay planks parallel to the longest wall for the most natural appearance.
- Solid hardwood is typically nail-down over wood subfloors; engineered can often float or glue down.
- Pay attention to wood grain direction for a cohesive look.
- Browse all hardwood flooring options.
Tile
- No acclimation needed, but subfloor flatness is critical — any unevenness causes cracked grout or lippage between tiles.
- Use the correct trowel notch size for your tile dimensions.
- Back-butter large-format tiles for better adhesive coverage.
- Let thinset cure fully (typically 24 hours) before grouting.
- Browse all tile flooring options.
Ready to start? Use our flooring calculator to find out how much material you need, then browse our full selection of luxury vinyl, laminate, hardwood, and tile. Have questions? Check out more expert guides or reach out to our team.
